A Bicycle Journey Around the Southern Hebrides

Our ride descriptions give an account of the ride that we completed. As part of the description we also provide links to Wikiloc or Google maps and elevation profiles based on mapping data available through the internet. The ride profiles are smoothed to give what in our opinion is a more beneficial view of the profile. We use paper maps, GPS and on line data to plan and conduct our rides. We are happy for you to use our descriptions, but be aware that we do not guarantee the accuracy of the information provided as situations surrounding any ride change over time.

• Distance           5km
  
• Max Elevation   118 m

Southern Hebrides - Ardrossan to Lamlash, Isle of Arran Ride Profile

The above profile only reflects the ride from Brodick to Lamlash

• Distance           46km
  
• Max Elevation    255m

Southern Hebrides - Lamlash to Lochranza, Isle of Arran Ride Profile

The next day of our Southern Hebrides tour gave us our first ride of any distance. All of us were out of condition having not ridden for several months prior to this tour. The climb out of Lamlash is a long stretch of a hill, but a beautiful ride, especially as you get to the top and then continue on along a plateau making up a broad flat valley called Glen Scorrodale that eventually descends towards the sea on the other side of the island at Sliddery.

From there we cycled up the coast taking a welcome break at the Blackwater Foot Lodge for lunch, as the heavens opened.

As we finished our lunch and just on cue the rain stopped and we continued on our journey. From here, the road runs next to the sea and it is an easy and scenic ride with views across the sea towards the Mull.

• Distance           44km
  
• Max Elevation    88m

Southern Hebrides - Lochranza to Campbeltown Mull of Kintyre Ride Profile

In the morning the rain had stopped and it was relatively warm. We took the ferry cross to Claoriaig Bay on the North East of the Mull of Kintyre.

The ride down the eastern coast of the Mull is wonderful. Mainly single track and next to no traffic, the road lead us gently downhill along the coast in the summer sunshine. We detoured slightly off the main route to the village of Carradale where, carefully watching our budget we stopped and bought lunch from a local store and then spoilt ourselves and our budget with coffee and cakes at the Carradale Hotel.

Fully satisfied we continued on our Southern Hebrides tour along the coast, which becomes less rugged as you come near to Campbeltown or "The Wee Toon" as it is commonly known locally.

As you come over the rise on the main road you get a lovely view of the town across the Loch.

In the past, Campbeltown had obviously been a very busy port and prosperous industrial town.

Its sheltered location and close proximity to Ireland and the Atlantic ideally suited it to the development of a large fishing fleet, with some 400+ herring boats at its peak.

It was an important port for coastal shipping and a significant boat building center. Coal was shipped through the port and the town boasted 34 distilleries at its peak.

Due to its closeness to Glasgow many rich industrialists had their homes there and the town has many Victorian and Edwardian style villas along both sides of the Loch.

Today all of that industry has gone with only a few fishing boats and just one distillery left. The town is run down and lacking the buzz that had benefited from in the past. The place was a disappointment, but worth the visit if only to understand its history.

Our B & B was up on the hillside overlooking the town and we had a pleasant nights stay.

• Distance            31km
  
• Max Elevation     62m

Southern Hebrides - Campbeltown to TayinLoan, Mull of Kintyre Ride Profile

The next day we set off North, heading up the West side of the Mull of Kintyre on the main A83. A little more traffic, but still not over busy. This road is pretty flat all the way along and doesn't have the appeal of the east coast road.

We stopped half way there for a coffee and then continued on, arriving at the Ferry Farm B & B at TayinLoan. 

This place, run by Loraine and Alistair is lovely and their food and presentation is excellent.

The location is stunning, with views across to the small Isle of Gigha. The Island is owned and operated by a Trust established by its community and is a thriving and expanding Island with ambitious development plans.

Unfortunately we didn't have time to visit this lovely Island, but we did have time to take some nostalgic evening shots, like this one looking towards the island...

and this one at dusk.

• Distance            34km
  
• Max Elevation      125m

Southern Hebrides - TayinLoan to Craighouse Isle of Jura Ride Profile

It was a lovely ride up the single track coast road, which rises up past the famous "Jura Paps".

The Paps dominate the landscape and comprise the three mountains - Beinn an Oir (Mountain of Gold) at 785m, Beinn Shiantaidh (Sacred Mountain) at 757m and Beinn a' Chaolais (Mountain of Sound) at 569m.

The appearance of the Paps is unique. Greys whites, purples, greens and browns play with the light to form an unusual colouring of these stunning hills.

If you fancy a challenging walk you have almost total access to walk over the Paps, as long as it isn't stalking season.

On the way we saw several herds of deer...

When we had gone as far as we could go we headed back and stopped on the way at Tarbet. Tarbet used to be a port until a few years ago with a regular ferry coming over from the mainland, but it has long since stopped.

We sat on the side of the harbour in total peace and quite. A solitary seal swept into the bay and bobbed its head up to see what we were up to. After a few minutes of curiosity he dived down and headed off.

As we sat there we spied a number of tiny, transparent jelly fish rising and falling in the crystal clear water. They were so delicate and perfect in ever way. Jura certainly got our vote for the most beautiful island in the Southern Hebrides.

• Distance           40km
  
• Max Elevation    88m

Southern Hebrides - Craighouse to Port Charlotte, Isle of Islay Ride Profile

• Distance            31km
  
• Max Elevation     80m

Southern Hebrides - Port Charlotte to Port Ellon Ride Profile

The next day, we awoke to lovely sunshine and set off back along the bay. Fifteen minutes down the road took us to the Bruichladdich Distillery, one of the most traditional distilleries in the Southern Hebrides.

We had heard about this particular distillery on Radio 4 and were particularly intrigued by its story.

Built in 1881 by the Harvey Brothers Whiskey Dynasty, it grew until in 1975 it was producing 1.5M litres. It then passed through the hands of various different owners and finally closed down in 1994 apart from a brief period in 1998 and lay idle until May 2001.

Mark Reynier an ex London wine merchant, who holidayed in the Southern Hebrides, had the vision of restoring the distillery to its former glory and to produce the best Islay Single Malt whiskey in the traditional way.

Gaining the backing of 45 private investors including Islay landowners, he managed to buy the buildings and stock for £6.5M and after a painstaking restoration of the original buildings and machinery the BriuchLaddich Distillery re-opened on May 29th 2001.

Their philosophy - "Authenticity, Purity and Individuality. The Malt Crusaders: fiercely independent, non-conformist, innovative - the enfant terrible of the industry".

Wonderful BruichLaddich - Keep it up!!!

Having sampled the malt and made our purchases in the distillery shop we set off again for the ride to Port Ellen on the south coast of Islay.

Arriving at Bridgend we cut off the main road and took the much quieter B road that cuts over the moors.

We were quickly in Port Ellen and sought out our accommodation for the evening, which was a small modern bungalow set up on the hillside of Port Ellen. It lacked any character, but the rooms were very comfortable and the welcome was warm.

• Distance            10km
  
• Max Elevation     20m

Southern Hebrides - Port Ellen to Tarbert, Mull of Kintyre Ride Profile

Port Ellon has a pretty little harbour.

After a good breakfast we cycled down for a look around before catching the morning ferry back to the Mull of Kintyre.

As we left the harbour we spotted the Admiral Nelson sail training ship. It really looked a spectacular site.

The ferry docked at Kennacraig and we set off along the A83 towards Tarbert on the North of the Mull.

Along the way Steve spotted some road kill at the side of the road. A dead "Rabbit"!!!

After great hilarity and several photos we left it for some more deserving souls and continued down the hill into Tarbert.

• Distance            51km
  
• Max Elevation     180m

Southern Hebrides - Tarbert to Rothsey, Isle of Bute Ride Profile

We caught the morning ferry for the short journey over the lower part of Loch Fyne to Portavadie. Portavadie was a strange place. Apart from being where the ferry sails from, it had been the possible site for building oil rigs. The site was even developed to the point of having a whole village of 1960/70s style apartment blocks to house the future influx of workers. The expected contracts unfortunately didn't materialise and the whole scheme was abandoned. The village fell into a state of disrepair and frankly is now a real eyesore. However, large colonies of bats have the made the dilapidated buildings their homes. The bats are protected and hence nothing can be done with these awful looking buildings. In an attempt to regenerate the area, a sparkling new marina has been built.

We continued up the hill out of Portavadie along a lovely single track road to Millhouse and then down to Kames on the other side of the promontory. We took the steep hill up and away from the loch along the main A8003. As we reached the highest point and started our descent, the heavens opened, but we continued riding.

The rain got heavier and heavier until we were drenched, but we carried on skirting around the top end of Loch Riddon and down to Colintrave, the point for the Ferry to the Isle of Bute. On the way we saw a number of traditional yachts that were in the area for the Fyfe Regatta.

Again we had pre-booked our accommodation, but this time we had chosen better. We stayed at the Palmyra Hotel. A little bit more pricey, but worth the extra. The rooms were large and clean with large and powerful showers.

After we had rested we walked into the town for something to eat.

Rothesay was a Victorian spa town and there are many lovely Victorian and Edwardian villas along the sea front, which in the Town's hay day were owned by wealthy Glasgow industrialists. Today many of these magnificent buildings are hotels.

The town itself has suffered from its decline as a major spa town, but still has some notable features.

Not least the lovely Winter Gardens and Esplanade Gardens, Rothesay Castle and the promenade.

• Distance            41km
  
• Max Elevation     35m

Southern Hebrides - Rothesay to Ardrossan Ride Profile

Our final day and we didn't have to catch the ferry until about 1-00pm, so we took a taxi up to Mount Stuart House.

This magnificent gothic mansion was built by the 3rd Marquis of Bute in 1877 after the original house had been destroyed by fire.

Now I am not one for traipsing around old houses, but I have to confess that it really is a stunning place, very interesting and well worth the visit.

You can eat in the modern visitor centre and walk around the gardens. We were just disappointed that we didn't have longer to look around.

We arrived back in Rothesay with time to visit the historic and best preserved Victorian toilets in the UK. We just had to take a look. Unfortunately the lady's has been updated to a modern toilet block, but the gent's is still in its original form.

Then it was time to take the ferry over to Wemyss bay on the Argyle mainland, but before we did there was just time for a team photo. Looking around for someone to act as photographer we discounted the old lady and spotted a young couple walking across the grass. Phil suggested asking them, but we had already pigeon holed the lad as a bit "dodgy". We asked him anyway. He looked at as us as though we had just been born as we handed him our expensive camera. He joked about running off with it, but thought better of it. He obliged, gave us the camera back and here is the result.

The last part of the Southern Hebrides ride was not the most enjoyable as we had to follow the busy main A78 road along the coast south. To top it all we had our only puncture of the whole ride.We did manage to find a few side roads to avoid the main road and we headed on through Largs. West Kilbride and finally arrived back at the cars around 5-00pm, our tour of the Southern Hebrides complete.

We said some sad goodbyes, loaded up the bikes and were on our way home.