Lake Inle

Despite the early hour, the canal side of Nyaungshwe was already heaving with local tourists, swarming out of a line of coaches and onto the large canoe style boats that tour the lake. 

Leaving them behind we continued on a  narrow, unsurfaced lane to Kaung Daing. A  wide band of marshes and rice paddies surround the lake on this side so there are no views over the water.

There is a hot spring near Kaung Daing. It was crowded with local young men and cleanliness was questionable so, instead of bathing, we climbed the steps up to a small pagoda opposite. There was a view of the lake, some interesting pictures depicting the Buddha's life and tea and biscuits provided by one of the monks.

The map showed an unsurfaced road continuing south from there but in fact it was tarmac and in good condition. Most of the traffic we saw was ox-carts.

At Kanywa we visited a small local market, with most of the customers arriving and departing by boat. 

We reached Inthein in time for a late lunch. On the

outskirts of this village is a large group of ruined stupas, covered in foliage and with their umbrella tops leaning at crazy angles. We tried to avoid paying the entry fee for the Shwe Inn Thein Temple  by cycling up the lane at the side.

But the sharp eyed lady collecting the money stopped us. So we had to leave the bikes, pay the money and the 'camera fee' and then brave the long trek up a covered walkway which is lined with souvenir stalls and insistent vendors. 

Halfway up the hillside the walkway ends and in front of us were over 1,000 zedi, small stupas, most built between 200 and 300 years ago. Most of the lower ones are in ruins but further up the hill many have been, or are currently being, renovated, with plaques applied to advertise their benefactors.

We continued up the rough track to a hilltop which had views over the temple site and lake.

Returning to Inthein, we wanted to get a boat to take us and the bikes back to Nyaungshwe across the lake. There was only one boat near the bridge and Kjell and Steve went to negotiate a price for the trip.

Loading the four bikes, four passengers, the boatman's wife and young daughter from the narrow, slippery jetty took some time and the bikes position had to be adjusted to balance the boat.

Once the boat set off down the waterway, the water spray from the bow splashed continuously over the front two bikes.

It was a long but scenic journey back, through villages of teak house built on stilts above the water...

...golden pagodas, floating gardens,...

...and onto the lake with its shores lined with

expensive resorts. At dusk we arrived back in the town, meaning that the boatman and his family would have to make the return journey home in the dark.

Day three was spent riding down the upper east part of the lake. The road here is in  poor condition, very rough and potholed and in the process of being widened and straightened. We ate lunch in a small cafe in a village, listening to the local children practising for their full moon parade that evening.

After lunch we hired a boat for a trip out on the lake to take photographs of the fisherman, with their unique method of paddling the boat with their feet, standing on the back of the boat.