Cycling and Island Hopping
Along The Croatia Coast

Our ride descriptions give an account of the ride that we completed. As part of the description we also provide links to Wikiloc or Google maps and elevation profiles based on mapping data available through the internet. The ride profiles are smoothed to give what in our opinion is a more beneficial view of the profile. We use paper maps, GPS and on line data to plan and conduct our rides. We are happy for you to use our descriptions, but be aware that we do not guarantee the accuracy of the information provided as situations surrounding any ride change over time.

• Distance             67km
  
• Max Elevation      118m
  

Croatia Coast - Trieste to Piran Ride Profile

Returning to sea level we found the coast road which took us through a couple of slightly jaded old holiday resort towns before reaching the Slovenian border. This was the usual European, low-key affair with a big gateway but no-one at all interested in the passing traffic.

Following the coast we passed through a couple of Slovenian resorts, Isola and Portoroz before reaching the Croatian border. This was a much more formal affair with passport checks for both exit from Slovenia and entry to Croatia. After the border there is a long climb up into the hills that form the top of the Istrian peninsular. At the top for the second time that day we realised we had turned onto the motorway slip road and had to do a hasty retreat.

The campsite had its own private beach with sunbeds to hire so we had a relaxing day in the sun and both got a little burnt. There was a five masted sailing boat anchored across from the campsite and we waited all day, hoping it would put up its sails. Eventually it set off into the sunset, a spectacular sight.

• Distance             37km
  
• Max Elevation      102m
  

Croatia Coast - Piran to Porec Ride Profile

From the campsite it was quite a stiff climb back up to the main road past the old salt-pans along the Croatia coast.

Once at the top it was a gradual descent, heading to Savudria at the northern tip of the Istrian headland. There were quite a few small lanes and tracks along the seashore which meant we could escape from the fairly busy main road, turning south towards Umag.  This took us through several small towns and villages before arriving at Novigrad.

We treated ourselves to lunch at a restaurant on the harbour side before continuing down the coast to a much bigger campsite just before Porec. It was at the side of the sea with a restaurant, shop and swimming pool. It was very crowded, mainly with Austrian and German campers but the end of the holidays was approaching and lots of them were leaving.

• Distance                67km
  
• Max Elevation         179m
  

Croatia Coast - Porec to Pula Ride Profile

For our evening meal we walked into the old town past the impressive, partially rebuilt Roman ampitheatre which is used for concerts. Again it rained very heavily so we had to buy an umberella to get back. There were a number of teenage Brits in town, on their way to a big pop festival nearby. The cold wet weather was not what they had expected.

In the morning it had stopped raining but it was dull and windy. The ferry was a passenger catamaran so the bikes traveled on the rear deck. The wind was causing quite a swell and for the first hour the route was in open sea, some distance from the Croati coast. Quite a few of the passengers were a bit green and the staff were handing out plastic bags.

Zadar is a lovely place with an ancient walled city. The sun was now shining but the rain had caused a lot of flooding, especially in the cellars of the houses.

We walked past the lovely cathedral and thought it was strange that it was built in the middle of a lake. Only later did it become clear that this was just the flooded square.

Tourist information put us in touch with a lady who had a small, newly decorated apartment in the old town, just above a bar and we spent the afternoon sightseeing. That evening we had a lovely meal in the old town with the best lasagne of the whole trip. Steve had no appetite and a bad headache.

Steve  developed painful joints, a stiff neck and swollen hands overnight so we decided to have a quiet day and see if it got any worse. There was a wedding at the cathedral so we stopped to watch for a while. As a guard of honour all the groomsmen lit flares as the couple came out of church. The small square was soon filled with smoke and no-one could see anything.

Later, we spotted this motorbike that had been done up in a "Madmax" theme.

• Distance             37km
  
• Max Elevation        25m
  

Croatia Coast - Zadar to Biograd Ride Profile

There wasn't much alternative but to ride on the main road along the Croatia coast for most of the time but there were a few sections of tracks and roads through the coastal villages and even through a camp-site! It was fairly flat riding, along a pine tree lined coast with just light traffic. Biograd was a popular holiday resort with fast food outlets and bars along the shore. There was another thunder storm threatening so we booked into an apartment and shopped for food for tea before it poured yet again.

• Distance             81km
  
• Max Elevation       98m
  

Croatia Coast - Biograd to Primosten Ride Profile

The little town of Primosten is another fortified Croatia coast town, built on a small promentery, jutting into the sea. Not many of the buildings are original, except for the church but it is a very popular place with a busy marina.

• Distance             70km
  
• Max Elevation       75m
  

Croatia Coast - Primosten to Split Ride Profile

After a first short section along the Croatia coast the road climbed into the hills through low growing shrubs and pines. We dropped down to the city of Trogir, with its walls and castle. We wondered if there was a ferry from here to Split, to save us from having to ride along the road in the heavy traffic. After a bit of searching and asking we did find one but it was a passenger boat and the ticket seller did not think it would take our bikes. We could ask the captain but would have to wait 2 hours before the next one.

Giving up on this idea we continued riding along the Croatia coast towards Split, finding several long sections of old promenades in the many dated holiday towns that line this coast. With rain threatening we tried to find somewhere to have lunch but most places were closed. In the end we had to make do with toasted sandwiches from a fast food kiosk and eat them in the bar next door.

Getting into Split wasn't pleasant but not as bad as we feared. There was a long section of road through a massive industrial estate and then an anxious time trying to avoid ending up on the motorway. We followed the old road, which climbed up above the suburbs and then over the old river bridge and along a section of cycle track and some quiet roads to arrive at the historic city centre.

Our plan for tomorrow was to take the ferry from Split to Hvar, on the island of the same name, and ride to Sucuraj, at the opposite end. The Hvar town ferry was passengers only and wouldn't take bikes so instead we would have to get the car ferry to Stari Grad, a little further east. At the harbour were the usual crowd of accommodation sellers. One lady tried to persuade us to go to her hotel but at 75E it was beyond our budget. Then she offered us a room close to the harbour for 35E. It was a pretty poor place but we were too tired to search around for anything better.

• Distance             68km
  
• Max Elevation      352m
  

The ferry left at 8.30 for the two hour journey to Stari Grad. At the port we sat and drank a coffee to allow all the traffic to clear. It was a lovely sunny day and we were looking forward to revisiting the town of Vrboska where we had holidayed with our three young sons 27 years ago. It was only about 8km to the turn-off for Vrboska and riding down to the little harbour there seemed to be very little difference from our last visit. The buildings were smartened up, there were parasols and tables outside what had previously been just little, all male bars but otherwise it was just the same. The main difference is that the harbour, instead of little fishing boats, is now full of expensive cruisers.

There is a quiet,shady, traffic free road all around the headland from here to the next town, Jelsa where we had lunch. After a couple more kilometers along the sea we started on a long climb to the highest part of the island. It was a nice gradual gradient, mostly about 7%. The tarmac was quite rough in places but there was hardly any traffic. A trio of road cyclists came past downhill and warned us of the long climb. At the top the road followed the spine of the island with fabulous views over to the pale, sparsely vegetated mountains on the main Croatia coast and the Adriatic to the west.

There were vineyards and small villages but mainly pine forest and only the occasional car. The road was undulating with some draining long slow ascents but the day finished with a massive fast descent to the village right at the eastern end of the island, Sucuraj.

From here there was a little car ferry back to the mainland at Drvenik where we stayed the night.drv

In the morning we got a different car ferry over to the island of Korcula. It sailed along most of the south side of Hvar Island so we could see the route which we had followed the day before. Coming into the port at Korcula town we had fabulous views of this typical Croatian walled town with its cathedral at the top. There are a couple of campsites near the town so for the first time in a couple of weeks the tent got to see the light of day. We also managed to have a swim and lie in the sun for a while.

Today was our final ferry ride back from the islands to the Croatia coast. This time it was on a large car ferry which runs from Split to Dubrovnik twice a week, stopping at several of the islands. Unlike most of the other boats which serve the islands it is not a roll-off ferry. There was a side door on the car deck and as only a few vehicles were disembarking at Korcula there was no room to turn round on the deck so most of the drivers had to reverse across the narrow ramp.

Unlike the other ferries serving the islands, this one had a lot of old world charm about it. The crew all wore sparkling white uniforms and shoes and there were cabins, a bar and a restaurant. It was a long journey, about four hours, but the sea was flat calm and the sky was blue so we just sat on the deck watching the islands slip past.

The ferry arrived at the new port at Dubrovnik and as usual there was a throng of people offering rooms to rent. We negotiated with the first lady and agreed a price for a room not far from the port and an assurance of absolutely no steps to get there. She was picking up three backpackers off the same ferry so suggested we follow her car back to the house. Despite her assurances that she would go slowly we had to work hard to keep up and the last hundred meters was up a hill. She parked up in a supermarket carpark and pointed to the house, up a flight of about 15 metal steps. Luckily one of the backpackers helped to lift the bikes.
That evening we ate at a pizza and a litlle cafe further up the hill whilst watching Murray win his semi-final of the American Open.