Cycling the Pacific Coast -
San Francisco to Los Angeles

Our ride descriptions give an account of the ride that we completed. As part of the description we also provide links to Wikiloc or Google maps and elevation profiles based on mapping data available through the internet. The ride profiles are smoothed to give what in our opinion is a more beneficial view of the profile. We use paper maps, GPS and on line data to plan and conduct our rides. We are happy for you to use our descriptions, but be aware that we do not guarantee the accuracy of the information provided as situations surrounding any ride change over time.

• Distance           55km
  
• Max Elevation    210m

Pacific Coast - San Francisco to Half Moon Bay Ride Profile

• Distance           42km
  
• Max Elevation    140m

Pacific Coast - Half Moon Bay to Butano State Park  Ride Profile

Awoke to wet drizzle and fog. The tent was soaked inside and out. Got an early start and tried to carry on along the Pacific Coast cycle way along the cliff top. It looked promising, but gradually deteriorated into a single track footpath. Getting over our fears of it going nowhere we tracked inland to get over an intervening gully and got back onto the Pacific Coast Highway. 

We hadn't been back on the highway for more than 3 minutes when Steve realised he had a puncture. Our well oiled repair procedure kicked in and we were soon back on our way. 

For the next 30km we continued on Highway 1 which was very up and down and busy with weekend traffic. American traffic mainly seems to adhere to the speed limit and we saw many "speed Controlled by Radar" signs and a few unmarked police cars. When we saw a sign saying "Speed Controlled by Aircraft", we had visions of Tom Cruise in his F15 flying low along the Pacific Coast shooting up anything that went over the limit.

• Distance           65km
  
• Max Elevation    140m

Pacific Coast - Butano to New Brighton Beach Ride Profile

We had to clear the site early. There was no fog and we rode up through the canyon to see the massive redwood trees. Then it was off up the Gazos creek on a nice quiet road to rejoin the Pacific Coast route. 

It was less hilly today, just gentle rolling countryside; lots of cliffs and rocks with sandy beaches. 

We stopped at a pick your own strawberry farm with its sign offering coffee at a discount for cyclists. We called in and opted for a strawberry short cake with cream. They had NO coffee as they had run out and only had some "festive tea thing". Still, it was well received. 

At this point we have to mention that Steve had been having problems with his bell/compass. The bell wouldn't ding and in trying to fix it he had snapped the ball compass off its mounting. Painful! 

He had now managed to fix the bell but still complained "My bell's ringing, but I've got no direction". Karen thought that this was akin to "the light's on but there's nobody home". 

• Distance           22km
  
• Max Elevation   65 m

Pacific Coast - New Brighton to Sunset Beach Ride Profile

We decided not to go all the way to Monteray today and opted to have a short ride. As we left the camp site a sign advised that the Pacific Coast bike route was closed and the diversion was very poorly signed. We ended up riding along the beach at Alto Apos, a sleepy seaside resort comprising mostly of vacation apartments. It was a dead end and we had to turn around and climb a very steep hill back out of the town to get us back onto the advised Pacific Coast route. Again we struggled to find somewhere we could buy groceries. At the turn off for Morensa State Beach we stopped to ask a passing motorist. He tried to use his I-phone to find us a grocery store without success. (modern technology ain't all it is cracked up to be). 

Along the road was found a camp ground with a poorly stocked general store, but managed to find enough for an evening meal. We headed back to the Morensa camp ground only to find that they didn't have a hike and bike section. 

We were now into another intensive market gardening area, with fields of strawberries, artichokes, brussel sprouts and cabbage. Just as we were about to turn off to Sunset bay, the fog started to roll in and the previously beautiful day was lost. We had the camp site to ourselves and we pitched right next to one of the fields - (forever). The temptation to steal a few was intense.

After we had pitched, the sky cleared again and we walked down to lie on the deserted beach. We stayed until dusk and watched, amazed as hundreds of gulls flew in from all around to roost on the beach. They lined themselves up on final approach, like 747s coming in to land at Heathrow. 

As we climbed back up the sand dunes to get a better view of the sunset, a group of lads asked us to take a photo of them. They then ran down the steps, across the beach scattering the roosting birds in all directions, stripped down to their duds and dived into the freezing cold Pacific. 

After the obligatory sunset photos...

...we returned to shower and cook our supper.

• Distance           51km
  
• Max Elevation    55m

Pacific Coast - Sunset Beach to Monterey Ride Profile

The next morning we continued our Pacific Coast ride through the intensive farming area, with huge field after field of fruit and veg, which employed large numbers of mainly Mexican workers. 

Finally the Pacific Coast route came back onto 1 which was busy and noisy with lots of lorries. Although there was a wide hard shoulder, this section was boring and unpleasant. 

Suddenly, a sign advised us that we were coming to a Freeway ( the UK equivalent of a Motorway). We couldn't see any other way ahead and stopped to ask a Mexican worker in the fields. He told us to continue along the Freeway until the first exit. We pedaled like maniacs along the hard shoulder with three lanes of fast moving traffic, convinced that we were breaking the law and about to be arrested by the police. When we reached the first exit a sign said " No Bicycles beyond this point", so it was obviously part of the official Pacific Coast route, but the signs didn't give much indication of that. 

From there we traveled on quite side roads and then onto a well surfaced Pacific Coast cycle track parallel to the Freeway, all the way into Monterey. The rough ground around the cycleway was a warren of ground squirrels that kept doing a kamikaze dashes in front of our wheels. 

Approaching Monterey we had lovely views across the beach to the Pacific Coast headland. The Fisherman's Wharf on the outskirts of the town looked inviting with lots of restaurants and shops. We locked up the bikes and had a delicious homemade pasta lunch. Afterwards we walked along the wharf to see the resident sea lions and pelicans.

Sealions in Monterey Harbour

Karen had left her brand new North Face fleece top under the bungee cord on the bike of her bike and whilst we had our backs turned someone made off with it. Grrrrr! 

Checked into the Hostel on Hawthorne Street for two nights as we needed to get hair cuts, get our computer fixed and find a new fleece top.

• Distance           65km
  
• Max Elevation    160m

Pacific Coast - Monterey to Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park Ride Profile

After yesterday's Pacific Coast ride we knew that we didn't want to take the route up the busy 68 hill. Instead we found a way across the Monterey headland between the golf courses coming onto the Carmel Beach road at Pebble Beach. 

Carmel Bay was beautiful with a long curving beach of almost white sand. Along the seafront were houses demonstrating the imaginative flair of American design uninhibited by strict planning rules. There were Scottish castles, fairy tale cottages and other such grossly over the top concoctions.

As we left Carmel we stopped at Carmel mission. When California was a Spanish colony Christianity was brought by the Spanish to the local native indian community.

Rejoining highway 1 we stopped at "Safeways" to buy supplies. While Karen was shopping Steve met a Mexican couple cycling the coast on recumbent bikes and was befriended by a gentleman of the road from Baltimore that carried a pair of drumsticks and a bag (but no drums). He lectured Steve on the ins and outs of how they had beaten the British prior to the civil war. Was he glad when Karen came out of the shop and got us back under way. 

From here it was a gradual climb up towards Big Sur. We stopped at a vista point (view point to us British types) and dragged our bikes through a few feet of scrub to sit on the cliff top overlooking the sea to eat our lunch and have a brew up. It was perfectly quiet when we arrived, but by the time the stove was going a large group of motorcyclists had arrived and come over to our private little spot to take photos of the view. This was repeated again after a few minutes when a couple of cars stopped and their occupants all came across. Then a familiar face appeared. It was the young guy from the Hostel the night before. He seemed to want some company so he sat and ate lunch with us and we introduced him to real English teas with milk in it. He seemed to quite enjoy it and informed us that his name was Beamer. 

Thereafter the Pacific Coast route was an up and down road and we had fabulous views across the bay to the Point Sur lighthouse followed by a fast downhill and a long flat section before rising up slightly again as we came into Big Sur and saw Beamer sitting at a bar with beer in his hand. We had to join him.

• Distance           55km
  
• Max Elevation    280m

Pacific Coast - Pfeiffer Bug Sur State Park to Plaskett Creek Ride Profile

Before we set off south we went back 3km to Big Sur to buy provisions as we were unsure if there would be any more places to buy food. Carrying on again past the camp site there was a long climb which was hard going first thing in the morning. As Murphy's law would dictate, at the top of the hill was a store. 

As we slogged up the hill we were passed by Beamer who had his sights set on getting to San Louis Obispo as he wanted to go to a swing dance (his other hobby). Our aspirations were much more modest.

On the way down the other side of the hill we stropped at the Henry Miller Gallery to look at some amazing art and for a coffee and Burito. The road was very busy with weekend holiday makers. It seemed to us there were only four types of vehicle on this part of Pacific Coast highway SUVs, Rvs (towing SUVs), sports cars and Harley Davison motorbikes. 

The whole day was spectacular riding with fantastic views down to the Pacific Coast on our right and precipitous mountains and forest rising on the left. The sun shone strongly and it was very hot when we were high up, but whenever the road dropped back near sea level we picked up the cooling on-shore breeze. 

We repeatedly crossed narrow canyons dropping down to cross them over concrete bridges built during the 1930s and then climbing again up the other side. There were not many trees to find shade to eat our lunch and finally stopped at Lucia under a tree.

• Distance           52km
  
• Max Elevation    230m

Pacific Coast - Plaskett Creek State Park to Hearst San Simeon Ride Profile

Our shared hospitality the night before paid off when the two American ladies paid our camp fees for us. 

With clear blue skies and no wind we were set for a hot day. We cycled 5km to the Whale Watchers Cafe for breakfast. Bob was already there so we sat with him. We were soon joined by two more ageing touring cyclists, so we all ate together. 

Breakfast over, it was 10-30am and we had a 1000ft climb out of Gorda followed by a fast downhill and another steep ascent. 

After a few more minor hills we stopped for further refreshment before beginning a long gradual descent back to sea level. We were flying along when a group of people hailed us from a truck in a lay-by. They were the support team for a 100 mile road cycle race from San Lous Obispo to the Pedras Blancas Lighthouse and back again. They gave us bananas, apples and water as well as advice to call and see the Elephant Seals further along the road. 

As instructed we stopped when we saw the tourists looking over the fence. This is where Elephant Seals come to give birth in the spring and to rest in the autumn. The beach was littered with row on row of pale seal bodies looking somewhat like sunbathers on the Spanish Costas.

We moved on from the tourists and only 200 meters up the road we spotted another small beach with no tourists and got much better views of juvenile male seals sparring in the water.

We were now cycling passed Hearst Castle and decided against spending $27 to view it and instead diverted into San Simeon and ate a Hearst Beef Burger at a wee cafe.

As we covered the last 5km to the camp site we were amazed to see Zebra grazing in the fields with the cattle.

• Distance           3km

At 6am the couple next door started packing up again. It seemed hardly worth the $35 for 9 hours camping. 

As we packed we said our sad goodbyes to Bob who we had camped and traveled with for the last three days.

We planned to only go three miles to Cambria so spent the morning doing odd jobs. The washing we had done the night before just would not dry despite hanging on a line in full sun with a stiff breeze, the high humidity meant that it just stayed wet. Finally it was packed damp. 

The hostel at Cambria had been recommended to us and we needed time on the Internet. Obviously the ride did not take long so we bought some lunch and then went to sit on the beach in the warm sunshine. Here we met Fred who would become a constant companion as we traveled down the Pacific Coast. Always appearing just as food was brought out he would wait patiently for any tasty morsels that were on offer.

The hostel had the feel of a small family home.

• Distance           34km
  
• Max Elevation    83m

Pacific Coast - Cambria to Morro Bay Ride Profile

The road from Cambria moves away from the Pacific Coast. It was a steady up hill into a strong and hot head wind. The temperature was rising rapidly and our legs felt like they were frying. Arriving at the north end of Morro Bay the road cuts north east along the top of the bay to the small Pacific Coast town of Cayucos. We had to find shelter from the incredible heat. Even the locals were complaining about how hot it was. 

We stopped at a cafe with air conditioning and downed gallons of iced water, before we could even summon the energy to order food. The thermometer on the shaded patio read 37 deg C (100 deg F). 

Fed and watered we continued our journey in the intense heat. Suddenly at around 12-30 we dropped down to sea level and caught a blast of wonderful cooling sea breeze. It was like someone had just turned on the air conditioning. 

Morro Bay is a lively town on an estuary with a beautiful, natural harbour spoilt only by a power station at one end of the bay.

We shopped at Albertson's and Steve came out chuffed to death as he had bought a bargain load of Dover Sole fillets for $3.83, but was shocked by the total bill - $76. However neither he nor Karen queried it at the time. 

The Morro Bay state park camp ground is in a great setting by the golf course and minutes from the estuary. There were eleven other cyclists staying there that night. We met a young guy with dreadlocks on a most unusual bike. Unfortunately we didn't get his name.

It was peaceful and we both had the best nights sleep camping for some time.

Day off - Steve was still wondering why the shopping bill yesterday was so high. He rechecked the till receipt and found that instead on $3.83 cost for the fish he had actually been charged $38.3, hefty price for a bit of sole! The shop refunded the difference. The rest of the morning was spent shopping in the town and later we rode around the estuary. There we sat on the side of the water watching the marvelous air display of the pelicans diving bombing to catch fish and the smaller birds all getting in on the act to salvage the leftovers. 

There were hundreds of pelicans in the bay. At night they roosted on dredging barge close to the shore. There were two types of breed, grey and white. We learnt that the two types hunt for fish in very different ways. The grey ones fly up and dive down into the water to scoop up the fish. The white ones form large groups and work cooperatively, wading in the water to herd the fish onto the shallows where they can catch them more easily.

• Distance           37km
  
• Max Elevation    52m

Pacific Coast - Morro Bay to Oceano Dunes Beach Ride Profile

• Distance           73km
  
• Max Elevation    180m

Pacific Coast - Oceano to Lompoc Ride Profile

• Distance           33km
  
• Max Elevation    150m

Pacific Coast - Lompoc to Buelton Ride Profile

We got up late and spent a long time looking for accommodation on line. As it was weekend everywhere was booked up in the town we wanted to stay in Solvang so we booked into the No 6 at Buellton. 

Left Lompoc on highway 1 towards Santa Barbara and took the first left on a minor road along the Santa Ynez valley. It was a relief to be on a quiet road. It is an important agricultural area growing vegetables and grapes for wine production., We rode through walnut groves and home oaks. 

Buellton was a nowhere place, by the side of the Freeway. Very Mexican. We went for a meal at the reputed Pea Soup Anderson's restaurant. We were under whelmed. 

Saturday was a day off so we worked on the blog as well as talking with relatives on Skype. 

In the afternoon we rode 3 miles to Solvang, the Danish capital of America. It is a pretty , wooden town although the Americans call it a city. We were a bit disappointed as it seemed very false. A bit like a Disney World film set. Typical Danish style buildings and windmills for no other reason than to build the illusion. 

The most authentic thing was the town museum which was in a house built decorated by a Danish artist couple in the 1950s. It had exhibits of their art and historic records of the town and its development. It was run by three senior lady volunteers who were very keen to share their extensive knowledge of the area and history of the exhibits.

Street Car in Solvang

We were the only visitors there while the false part of the town was heaving with tourists all apparently fascinated by the place. 

When we got back that evening we saw on the TV that the East Coast had experienced bad rains and flooding. For once the bad weather missed us. 

In the evening we walked down the road to AJ Spurs a traditional steak bar. AS per normal American style the portions were huge so we shared a 12oz Sirloin. The biggest steak on the menu was a 36oz one. Anybody that could eat it all got a free T shirt. XXX Large style we presume

• Distance           45km
  
• Max Elevation    280m

Pacific Coast - Buelton to Refugio State Beach Ride Profile

The ladies in the Sovang museum had told us about Alisal Road, a lovely back road that went out of Solvang and about 6km through the valley to join the Highway 101 and our Pacific Coast route further along.

It saved us some tortuous climbing up the 101 and it was such a treat to cycle along this British style lane in the shade of the huge Home Oaks and Maple Trees.

The low cloud spoiled some of the view to the top of the Santa Ynez mountains. 

Cycling along we glanced down and spotted this huge tarantula at the side of the road crawling gingerly through the grass.

Once we joined the Pacific Coast highway the elevation was at the base of the clouds so we donned our reflective waistcoats and switched on our lights. 

Another section of three lane free way which some veteran cyclists had recommended to us in Preference to the Refugio road which would have taken us straight over the mountains, but was way to steep. Over the crest we had a two mile down hill all the way to Gaviota. 

As we cycled along the Pacific Coast highway, Karen yelled out to Steve "Dolphins" and there they were jumping clean out of the water several times as they chased schools of fish. 

At Refugio the camp price had doubled to 10$ per person and there were no shops or services, apart from a small store that sold nothing very useful at high prices. Spent nearly $70 on basic foods for our two day stay. A guy that was just vacating his camp site gave us a heap of firewood, so we had a cosy evening around the fire while we ate dinner. The compensation was that the hike and bike section was right on the beach so we could sit eating our meals watching the dolphins, seals, pelicans and terns all feasting on the abundant ocean fish.

The following day the previous day's low cloud had cleared so we decided to ride up the Refugio canyon road (without load). It was very steep and we could not have done it with a full load. We rode through avocado, lemon and walnut trees and as we got higher came into low scrub.

• Distance           42km
  
• Max Elevation    62m

Pacific Coast - Refugio State Beach to Santa Barbara Ride Profile

It was a cool morning with high cloud and calm sea. 

We chatted with Vreni an Ueli, who were around 60 ish and were basically done what we had done, but rented their house out instead of selling it. They had been cycling for 17 months and down 17000 km. We got the impression that they were wanting to go home, but their house was on three year lease. From Refugio they were heading on down to Mexico and then flying to Morocco before working their way back to Switzerland through Spain and France.

• Distance           19km
  
• Max Elevation    44m

Pacific Coast - Santa Barbara to Carpinteria State Beach Ride Profile

The Pacific Coast route from there was along quite suburban roads and cycle tracks all the way. 

For the first time in America the campground was next to a good size town so there was easy access to shops, bars and restaurants. Just as we had pitched an other couple of cycle tourists arrived, Clare and David from Newcastle. They were on a six month trip from Seattle down to Mexico and Central America. Being 15 years our junior and on a definite time scale they were covering twice our daily distance. We met them in the bar later in the evening. They were good company and we were sorry not to be able to spend more time with them.

• Distance           28km
  
• Max Elevation    340m

Pacific Coast - Carpinteria to Lake Casitas County Park Ride Profile

Today we left the Pacific Coast route and took highway 150 more or less due east, North of Venture. There were two good climbs, but the road was quiet and the scenery stunning with the surrounding peaks up to 2300m and large trees to shade us from the sun. 

It is serious avocado country with most of the slope covered with avocado orchards. We learned that there at least six different types of avocados, all maturing at different times of the year, thus guaranteeing a year round supply.

• Distance           77km
  
• Max Elevation    440m

Pacific Coast - Lake Casitas to Lake Piru County Park Ride Profile

Continued along highway 150 through the grand mountains and valley plateaus. After 5 mails came to the town of Ojai and stopped for an egg and bacon breakfast. 

As we set off a gain we were joined for a short time by an English cyclist, originally from Leicester who had moved to the US 21 years ago and California 18 years ago. 

He stopped for an energy bar saying he would catch us up, but he never did. We must be fitter than we think.

Only one serious climb today and we stopped at the Summit cafe, knowing that we had a good long hill from there into Santa Paula. Along the way we arrived at Sulphur Springs and saw the modern, Italian style, Thomas Aquinas College. As we headed down the valley we understood why Sulphur Springs had its name.

From Santa Paula it was all along the highway which was flat, but was very busy with a lot of large lorries. After brief stop at Fillmore for a McDonalds and some shopping we turned off up to Lake Piru. The road was poor and it was getting late. The road rose gradually until we reached the dam at which point the gradient increased dramatically so we were in 1, 2 and 3 gears most of the way. 

Reaching the top we got wonderful views of the Lake in the setting sun.

• Distance           42km
  
• Max Elevation    420m

Pacific Coast - Lake Piru to Santa Clarita Ride Profile

With both bikes repaired we needed sustenance, so headed for the Starbuck's in the Barnes and Noble bookstore to find Sam's address.

Coincidentally Sam's mum, Chris was in town on business and had invited us to use the spare room in her hotel suite near to LAX International Airport, before we flew to New Zealand. It was some 40 miles from Santa Clarita to El Segundo where she was staying. The easiest way to get there seemed to be by using the Metro. 

So once we had packed up and loaded our equipment on the bikes we set off, stopping after a couple of hundred yards to post a letter. It was then we realised Karen's rear tyre was flat again and still we hand no spare tubes. We only had 40 minutes to catch our train! 

A nearby shop owner Googled bike shops and found two. Steve unloaded his bike and set off at full speed. After a miles ride he found the first shop. It was closed! 300 meters further on the second shop was also closed!(today was Columbus Day in the US) Pulling his hair out he asked in another shop to see if there were any more bike shops. Told that there was another close by, he set off again following vague directions. Unable to locate it he asked a passer by who Googled it on his i-phone and called them to make sure they were open. 

Steve finally returned with spare tubes in hand. By this time the train should have gone. Tyre repaired we casually rode to the station expecting a long wait. Fortunately the train was late and was just pulling into the station. The train attendant ran with Steve to the ticket machine and helped him buy the tickets and then it was a mad dash back to load the bikes onto the train. Phew!